Leila Albogachieva conquers Mount Everest twice
By Vestnik Kavkaza
The climber Leila Albogachieva, who became the first Ingushetian to ascend Mount Everest, visited Moscow on June 11. Even more - the mountaineer conquered the world's highest peak twice. Just recently she has successfully completed her second ascent, which she made alone by the most difficult route from Nepal. Last year, in a group of climbers from Ingushetia, Albogachieva climbed Everest from the northern Tibetan side. So in this Leila is the most special. Albogachieva became the first Russian woman to ascend the highest point on Earth from both the north and the south sides. Leila raised the flags of the Russian Federation, the Republic of Ingushetia, the Sochi Olympics and the "Wild Division", which celebrates 100 years this year.
- I've always wanted to go up from Nepal, as those climbers who have been at this peak from Nepal, they said, it is much more difficult than from the Tibetan side. I just wanted to see. Indeed, when going through the Khumbu glacier, it is really very hard. Constant rockfalls. When we went up, my Sherpa we ahead, and he yelled: "Leila, look out!". And this stone, a huge boulder flew down with incredible speed, I thought at first it was a helicopter. Fog and poor visibility. And it went just 10 centimetres past me. The dangers are there. I will not lie to you, I was ready both mentally and physically, I wanted to do this incredible thing. Why? Because it’s 60 years of Everest, they invited all the climbers who had been up since the times of Edmund Hillary, Vladimir Shataev was with us when we were walking with our Russian, Ingush and Olympic flags for 3 kilometers. And these, as they call them, invited pensioner climbers ... I wanted to do something infinitely improbable there for this country, for this republic. And I said that I would make a second ascent. Too many holidays, anniversaries came together - one climb was too little on my part. I was ready in two days. I called a man with whom I made arrangements and who promised to provide me with oxygen and additional Sherpa, and I learned that he had two people die there. And was not to take unnecessary problems to his head, he did not take a radio, did not get in touch, even though everything was perfect and ready, and even the weather allowed me to do it. And then on our part, make her go down, do not let her do a second climb - such talk started. And I cried when I loaded my trunks on a yak, I cried. I did not want [to leave], I wanted to do it - to devote the second ascent to Mount Everest, to Nepal's independence, and in general to all those who came here and could not make the climb.
- Every sport has its own idols. Is there one person you admire?
- Ivan T. Dusharin. I have so much respect and love for this person. A person who 100% justifies his name - Dusharin. There is Denis Urubko. When I met him for the first time, I had the feeling that I had known him for a long time. Shataev Vladimir. These are our legendary climbers. I always had respect and sympathy for these wonderful and brave men. Why? Because I asked him, "Tell me, every time you make a climb, if you had ever said to yourself, no, I'm going for the last time, I leave climbing? 'Yes,' he says - I had. I will not hide it. But each time, already after ascent and descent, and the love for the mountains, mania, their call - they forced me involuntarily to make these ascents. And what they did, what kind of results – we all know.
- Do you want to put together a team female mountaineer-climbers and conquer mountains together?
- I have for several years had a plan to form a group of female climbers who will climb the tops, not only Mount Everest, but other eight thousanders, which are more complex in terms of ascent, and the routes.