Travelling to city of Caucasus soul

Travelling to city of Caucasus soul

Irina Golovina, the media advisor of NATO Information Bureau in Moscow, reported on her impressions from Baku in Nezavisimaya Gazeta.

Now I have a new tradition to start special trips from a night flight in memory of the dawn I saw in Baku in June 2017, the first day after the shortest night of the year. The journey to Azerbaijan’s capital is a special treasure of my heart.

A moment ago, a black velvet night and a diamond placer were in my illuminator; I had a small talk with my neighbor: “Is it your first visit to Baku? I wish you fantastic discoveries.” And now, I’m running with my light suitcase on a soft carpet of the arrival lounge, ordering Uber and breathing sweet air full of spicy flavors – and the flaming sky is striking me. Scarlet and deep pink stains on lilac. And golden shadows. And a pure music of colors and lines. And a clear vision of fantastic discoveries expecting me in the city.

The hotel, the cozy room. The dawn is soft and calm but I can’t sleep. I put on sneakers, jumpsuit, take a map, turn on a navigator on my smart phone and find myself at the junction of Bakinkhanova St. and Stroiteley St. I eagerly drink beauty and harmony of the south city’s morning and listen to signs of the universe.

Baku men are never in a hurry and they always walk honestly. However, if the situation makes them move quickly, they use a dancing run. They move their legs and arms quite quickly but still honestly and graceful. It resembles the lezghinka dance.

Baku taxi drivers beep twice. Or even thrice.

One has to go down to metro and take part in the moment of a true spiritual nature of a person. If you get lost and have a question, a woman on duty meets you halfway, decently explains everything and wishes you good luck and good night.

The best sea-front is in the White Town for those who is tiered of noise and crowd on the Neftyaniki Avenue. The Old Town deserves 10 per cent of your strolls. But I came to the Governor Garden again and again because Kurban Said made me love Ali and Nino forever.

At 6 a.m., you will find two attractions in Baku. The first one is silver-haired Baku men – everybody is in ironed shirts with or without a cap. They sit on benches at Bakikhsnov Avenue and in a park near the Academy of Science. The second one is female sweepers. I have never seen such funny brooms. Both of them are examining me steadily, asking what I’m looking for and whishing good luck.

In Baku, everybody examines everybody but the looks are nice.

I’m a Caucasus sole forever. I feel good in Baku, at its small streets and big avenues. Baku resembles Tbilisi, especially in its Soviet part of the city. And I’m happy in Baku just like I am in Tbilisi because I’m home, in the Caucasus.


Vestnik Kavkaza

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